The Amazon experience - preparation

One of the reasons why I really wanted to visit Ecuador was the widely commented abundance of wild life and spectacular ecosystems open to hikers. In my earlier post I already explained what is Ecuadorian government policy and why is this country so unique. You can read about it again HERE. I am all about preservation and it inspired me to get out of the comfort of American Midwest and hop on the plain to experience it first-hand.
I planned my first days to be spent in the Amazon. For many of you travellers, the Amazon is usually on one's bucket list, and it was on mine too. I have always wanted to go and admire the Venezuelan Angel's Falls, which is relatively deep in the Amazon, 3-day canoe trip to get to its base. I have always thought that will be my first experience with the Amazon wildlife and that the adventure to get to there cannot be possibly compared with anything else.  It is still true that the particular trip is my dream and while it is still on my list, pending better political climate and my increased Spanish skills, I chose not to wait for it. I am a person that does not like to sit and wait for a long time for something that may never happen. To wait for Venezuela to pull itself together is like waiting for impossible (no offense). My decision to go to Ecuador and experience the Amazon from there was based on safety, experience and common sense. It turned out to be a spectacular success and I am happy with the way I carry my due diligence. 

How was it, The Amazon experienced from the Cuyabeno Eco lodge? First you need to know where you want to go, before you can get there.

Amazing trees are amazing, every one of them is different.

The Great Lagoon, water was unusually high even for the rainy season.

It can be overwhelming to have to research all the lodging options and types of experiences offered in the Amazon. After having spent countless hours researching agencies, blogs and forums I came to a conclusion that I should probably ask somebody for a word of advice. Fortunately I had great resources to ask, both experienced in tourism and working as guides. One of my dear friends happens to be Ecuadorian, we met on my trip to Australia, on the Overland Track, which you can read more about HERE. We became friends after only a very brief time spent together. Sometimes the connections that are developed over a short period of time are as deep and as meaningful as lifetime friendships. That was the case with Alex and me.



As I was reaching out to my local friends I learned that based on what I want to experience and the resources I had available to do that, I should choose between the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve and the Yasuni National Park.

Cuyabeno is well known, long established lodge. In fact, it was a very first eco-lodge in Amazon in Ecuador. It started taking tourists in the 80'. The project itself was a first this type of project in that part of the world and after a successful implementation it opened up the door for other initiatives like that.  Right now the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve is listed as the second largest in Ecuador (out of 45 national parks all together).
 

Around the lagoon after sunset..

The most bizarrely odd selection of people that I happen to accompany while in the Cuyabeno. Look at their facial expressions, bored and indifferent.

As I was reaching out to my local friends I learned that based on what I want to experience and the resources I had available to do that, I should choose between the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve and the Yasuni National Park.

Cuyabeno is the well known, long established lodge. In fact it was a very first eco-lodge in Amazon in Ecuador. It started taking tourists in the early 90'. The project itself was a first this type of project in that part of the world and after a successful implementation it opened up the door for other initiatives like that. Right now the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve is listed as the second largest in Ecuador (out of 45 national parks all together).

I love how rich and vivid green color can be. It provides a wonderful relief to my eyes, tired from computer monitors.

Why is it type of touristic experience special? Because it works in a way to produce a minimal footprint in Amazon and helps local indigenous people generate income. Every lodge in the jungle (or should I say almost every, as I have not looked through all of them) pairs/partners with a local community. Every village is of a specific ethnic background. For example in the Cuyabeno Reservation there are 5 ethnically distinctive groups of indigenous people. Our particular lodge partners with local Siona people. Siona people provide food for the lodge, provide simple services, like boat transport and they are local guides for the particular lodge. This helps young people in the village think differently about their future. Our local guide was local, spent his youth in the village. He went to study in Riobamba, finished college and came back to become a local guide for the Cuyabeno Lodge corporation.


This helps young people in the village think differently about their future. Our local guide was local, spent his youth in the village. He went to study in Riobamba, finished college and came back to become a local guide for the Cuyabeno Lodge corporation. 

From their website: "We felt that national parks needed to create employment and economic opportunities and that most opportunities were related to visitation of the national parks".
 

On this map you can clearly see local communities spread along the river.

Cuyabeno Wildflie Reserve map, source: http://www.cuyabenolodge.com/amazon-rainforest/cuyabeno-wildlife-reserve.htm

At one point I stopped looking because everywhere I looked were rainbows..and some of them really large, clear and complete, both arches (here you see just one side arch).

View from the watching tower @Cuyabeno Lodge. The type of accommodation was basic but comfortable.

I was blessed with a "suite", two double beds, a bathroom with large shower, a terrace with view over the lodge.

 Local guides are more knowledgeable of the local habitat, naturally. What surprised me, was the level of causality about the wildlife demonstrated by our guide. I think I can compare that to a person who has lived all their life in one place and is familiar with it so much that it does struck them as anything special or unusual. What was more worry some was that there was a degree in that approach that could mean that they will not put any special care into preserving their ecosystem. It was very apparent for me, having hiked through wildlife reservations in Australia for example, where local guides were extremely cautious of footprint left by tourism.
Anyway, our guide had good enough English skills and he was a walking example of how symbiotic the tourism and the local communities can be for each other.

Our boat drivers had to be creative in overcoming obstacles on the river. This time it required speeding through the fallen tree.

It takes 2,5 hrs traveling down the river at fast pace, to get to the Cuyabeno Lodge. The first day after arrival it took as something like 4 hrs however, as we had so many wildlife watching opportunities on the way. There was no point in rushing.

I was really tempted to try and go far South, to the newest and currently most remote national park with Kapawi, Achuar and Huaorani groups. I decided against it based on the cost and offered experience. The difference is, that while the Kapawi lodge is remote and owner by the local community and it may offer different exposure to wildlife, it practical terms, for a person who goes to experience the Amazon for the first time I did not find it justifiable to pay double the price. Additionally some of the community-owned lodges have less animals around them as they are active hunters and gatherers and they feed of the jungle around. You can probably guess that in that case you are not going to see much animals around. 
 

I cannot imagine how many different trees and other plants are in this one picture alone.

Heavy skies in the Amazon rainy season.

We were lucky with the weather, blue skies in the rainy season.

And now a little surprise! Here is a little video from the boat, hopefully you will be able to grasp who it feels to be there. The two little videos are for two different weather conditions. It looks much more dramatic, the jungle, when the sky is heavy and overcast clouds are hanging low almost touching the trees. When the weather is sunny, it is a much happier place to look.

My face was smiling retrospectively of weather conditions. It is such a special place to be.