Relaxing in Cairns, and a sudden change of plan

The diving trip has been an experience. I am so happy I got to fulfill one of my dreams. I have never expected to come so far so fast. Some people never get to follow their dreams. What does it take to follow through with your desires?

Lucky green frog, hiding underneath a deck.

 I have been doing a lot of thinking during this trip. All the time I spent alone hiking, traveling, being with myself only. Somehow it does not create any distress. I enjoy it. I look forward to it. I need it. My lucky green froggy was also found alone ender the deck. Does it make him any less happy that all the other frogs that live in packs? People seem surprised when they learn I am a loner. It is not expected of a woman to be consciously staying away from people and avoiding them even. But this is who I am. I learned one big thing about myself, I need to preserve my internal loneliness to be able to be with people. It is like a retreat, my safe place. In order to keep my safe place sacred I need my routines in every day life. I taught myself what these routines should be and I stick to them. 

When I travel it is different again. I like being left alone and have human interactions spontaneously on occasions. It is absolutely OK with me to chat with a stranger on a trail and to tell stories under the stars. It is absolutely daunting to have to make joined decisions all the time and compromise on every step you take because of other peoples views. I do not compromise on the way I want to spend my free time, it is way too precious for me.

Sea Quest from Cairns

After having spent a delightful time in big city of Melbourne, Cairns does not seem big or spectacular at all. There is no beach that you could walk to directly from the town itself, which is not what you would expect from the coastal town (I am puzzled, I need to research this). It is however the destination for scuba diving for its closest proximity to the Great Barrier Reef.

Saxon Reef - relaxing by the coral

@ Cairns City Backpackers

It was raining so heavily when I arrived that I could not get a firm grasp of town's atmosphere. Low season was making its stamp - no tourists, lots of special offers everywhere, streets full of water and more water falling from the sky all the time. Welcome to the rainy season in tropics!

 After having spent a delightful time in big city of Melbourne, Cairns does not seem big or spectacular at all. There is no beach that you could walk to directly from the town itself, which is not what you would expect from the coastal town (I am puzzled, I need to research this). It is however the destination for scuba diving for its closest proximity to the Great Barrier Reef.

It was raining so heavily when I arrived that I could not get a firm grasp of town's atmosphere. Low season was making its stamp - no tourists, lots of special offers everywhere, streets full of water and more water falling from the sky all the time. Welcome to the rainy season in tropics!

The difficulty in travelling outside of the peak season is that you may not have all the high-season options available. This turned out to be the case for me. After arriving at Cairns City Backpackers, already soaking wet with water, I knew I had to try to organize my boat trip to realize my dream of Great Barrier Reef. It took me a reasonable amount of time but finally, after endless phone calls and Internet browsing, I found 1 spare bed with TAKA DEEP SEA DIVERS DEN and I happily booked myself on a 2 day cruise.

The next day a pickup car arrives at 7:00 am and I am off onto another adventure.

Imagine my shock when I arrive at the marina and boarded the boat together with ... 80 other people. What?!?!? If this is the lowest of the season I do not want to think how the high season looks like). There is also one other explanation. Due to low season and all the other boats being serviced only this one boat was operational during the time of my stay.

Once everyone was on board the first deck was so crowded that it was impossible to breath without taking air from somebody else. We were quickly introduced to a ‘boat regime’ and after the formalities we could spread on all the different decks to get some space. I call it a ‘boat-regime’ because it was like a military drill in the end. Everything in perfect sync - briefing - getting scuba gear on - getting into water - dive - getting out of water - getting undressed and shower on the deck - a short break, and again same cycle.. a break for a meal - and again..and again.. and again.

1st I get to dive with two stranger buddies. They get short of air very soon and I end up ascending with 100 bars still in. Damn!

 

2nd dive, I change buddies from two guys to two girls. This should be good, right?! We did descend and ascend without major issue and in similar time frame, no waste this time. At least this one was more successful in terms of time on the bottom, even if the navigation sucked.

3rd dive, same girls buddies. I decide to stick to what I know. We are spending 30 min trying to descend and equalize. (shit!&*&&). One of the girls cannot make it. We take her back to the boat and then we decode to continue our dive on just the two of us. Guess what. My girl-buddy cannot make it do the bottom either. We come back with no achievement really. This sucks! I am supposed to be having the time of my life, scuba diving in Australia on the Great Barrier Reef and I cannot even get a decent dive out of it!

Ok don’t panic. You still have one night and one day to go. I switch boats. Boarded onto the OCEAN QUEST >> you can read a review from other divers TripAdvisor - Liveaboard on the Ocean Quest << for a night dive (wooohooo my very first night dive!) I keep my spirits high against all odds.

Finally something to chew on – the night dive is a guided one, so I do not have to worry much about unfortunate buddy selection. The scenery is the following: it has been raining most of the time with only occasional clouds clearing, water visibility wasn't great due to the rain. It was an amazing experience anyway. And now I was to get to water after sunset with all the night creatures swimming in it. Crazy me?!

I enjoyed this dive tremendously. It felt amazing to be swimming in the dark waters. All the sharks were amazed too! The way things go is that the crew throws bait into water – basically food leftovers I think - and so in no time we are surrounded with tens of reef sharks. No worries they are quite friendly and quite beautiful.

"The whitetip reef shark is one of the most common sharks found in shallow tropical and warm temperate water around coral reefs on the Great Barrier Reef. Look for them during the day as they lay to rest from the nights feeding on sandy patches in the reef. Usually found in 8 meters or deeper. When disturbed they will swim away very quickly. Reef sharks are scared of you much more then you are of them."



Whitetip reef shark - Great Barrier Reef - Australia



Our sharks are curious creatures and really come close to you. Are they tamed, one would think.. One looked me straight in the eyes, "hello, fancy meeting you here"...”the pleasure is all mine” I said back to him..

Here are some best places where to go diving with sharks worldwide: http://kathika.com/best-places-to-dive-with-sharks/.

Day second on the Ocean Quest boat and I get two new buddies. One is French - Mathieu and the other one is German - Tom, both professionals taking a break from business life. Both cure and more experience than myself. They offered to take me with them, so I said yes. Hell ye, after failures of day 1 and inexperienced buddies, I feel like jumping from happiness that finally I will get a decent dive in.

They took all the cool pictures under water and we had a great time together. 3 amazing dives, by the end of the day I was exhausted beyond comprehension. It has been really challenging days under water. Even the time spent on the boat was pretty filled with activities and exhausting. No time to take a break and relax by doing nothing. Eat, take instructions, dress up, dive, undress.. in cycles. The additional new element for me was introduction to unguided diving, all my 30 dives before I had always had a scuba instructor or a scuba guide with me. The feeling of security having an experienced buddy like that was very assuring. If you do not have your buddy travelling with you to do the scuba unguided dives with you, you may end up like me, trying to find the right match for your skills level and expectations. Big learning lesson for me.

Unfortunately being on a short schedule means that I and Mat must head back. Tom decides to stay and board for another day of diving. Good for him!

Well I have been all over the place in the last couple of weeks. It has been a truly amazing time and a great experience which I shall be exploring in more words soon enough. I kept my diary well and it is full of stories by now.. so stay tuned and I promise to keep you on your toes while reading it.

A dla wszystkich w ukochanym domu - mam tony historii tdo opowiadania, jak prawie zaginelam w dzungli, jak prawie zjadly mnie rekiny... i mnostwo innych. Szczesliwie wszystko przetrwalam i powoli zbieram sie myslami do powrotu do Europy.



Melbourne ... and hiding from too much interest

Melbourne was my stop-over before travelling farther onto my next adventure. I spent 3 wonderful days at Melbourne, using the time to relax after Tasmanian trek and refreshing my wardrobe to become more human again. My late arrival after an evening flight from Hobart (Jetstar airlines) did not leave much room for any kind of planning on that night. I chose to stay at the Nomads hostel. The place was very big and noisy, with people piling on top of each other… sometimes you just don't want to know.
After checking in at my hostel I decided to leave my stuff on a bunk bed and have a look around the neighborhood. Luckily I was alone in the big room, all other bunk beds were empty. Happy me.

Melbourne - Australia

Melbourne - Australia, water-ski competition @ Yarra river (I think it was world championship even).

Nomads backpacker's hostel happens to be wall to wall with U-BAR, I think it is not a coincidence for the two to be collocated. U-Bar is the place of wild partying and drinking in the neighborhood. Tired as I was at the late hour that night I wasn’t going to put any effort in dressing up. I decided, I am going there as I stand - in my hiking shoes and trousers, with a white t-shirt over. Fancy me (blink).

Inside it was busy like hell (after me spending 10 days in isolation in Tasmania one might think that I would be starving for crowded company, and seriously it was really busy). Though the age average was not thrilling.
So here I am standing by the bar, sipping my small 0.3l hard cider, probably looking shy, and what is the first thing that I see? There is this guy running around with no pants on (!). Actually with nothing on from his chest down. (Really people??)

Next is an Irish couple. They have been dating for few months, as I learn while standing there (not voluntarily, believe me). The girl is helplessly into this guy and he looks bored to death with her.

I keep dropping any guy approaching me... and I end up being accused of being a lesbian... what a night! huh

Hobart & Salamanca Market

Luckily all the action was ahead. Saturday & Salamanca Place is really where all the action happens, it like whole of Hobart accumulates in this one place to celebrate and enjoy. Those few hours of market opening need to compensate for a whole week of quietness - that's my explanation of why people are going wild on Saturday when market opens.
It was astonishing for me to touch and taste all the amazing fresh food. Coming from a farming country myself I could appreciate a real taste of fresh fruits and vegetables. Tasmania being an exporter or apples, lavender and wine as major goods, I must admit that their apples are first class!
I could not resist a shopping urge and I bought some local products, organic body cosmetics from a local manufacturer. Excellent quality of hand and foot scrub, I loved it and they made for great little gifts for my friends and family!




Salamanca Market is a street market in Salamanca Place, Hobart, Tasmania. It is a major tourist attraction in Tasmania, and is held on Saturdays between 8.30am and 3.00pm (Wikipedia)

It was astonishing for me to touch and taste all the amazing fresh food. Coming from a farming country myself I could appreciate the natural taste of fresh fruits and vegetables. Tasmania is an exporter of apples, lavender and wine. I must admit that their apples are first class!
I could not resist a shopping urge and I bought some local products, organic body cosmetics which seemed so fine that I could not resist. I discovered excellent quality in their hand and foot scrubs. They made for great little gifts for my friends and family!

 

Salamanca Place @ Hobart - Tasmania. Live music by local pipers. Who would have thought!

Salamanca Place @ Hobart, another live musician, Tasmania loves live music!

 

Wanting to get away from all the buzz and noisiness I strolled toward more quiet zones. I took a little hike and soon I was towering over the market below and I could look at it from a comfortable distance. I also found a little cute bay, very relaxing!



 

Retreat to peace and quiet times in the little charming back roads of Hobart

My remembering of Hobart will be very positive.
Busy but peaceful with stunning bay views of perfectly blue water and skies full of sun. The quality of food is also something to remember, had I had a bigger budget I would have certainly splashed on food more. Tasmanian apples will be my favorite, a cheap representation but well representing! Try simple things, like a tomato - you will be surprised on its textures, so different to European! Sweet in taste with soft skins, very pleasant and eatable just like a fruit. Meaty inside with no excess of watery juice. Mmmmmm ...my mouth is watering remembering the taste....

Hobart back roads are full of roses, roses are everywhere... they give certain charm and pleasant feeling especially if you find a little coffee shop to stop by and admire.. both coffee taste and a yard with roses that they will most certainly have... 


I find the quality of life in Tasmania very high. For a little distant island far away from everything, it can be striking how well people live and organize their surrounding over there. People come across as happy and fulfilled, there was not a single point of a complaint or discomfort I experienced. On the contrary During my brief stay in the towns I was presented a book-gift at one of a local coffee shops. The worry that young people in Tasmania have today is their future employment. A small state like Tasmania has a limited capacity in securing new jobs every year. Only seasonal jobs come with regularity, (apple picking pays a decent amount per hour, after a months work you could splash your salary and travel around - that is what I found teenagers were doing). But isn't this a common headache of all people living in capitalistic Western world, there is no employment security anymore, isn't there?

Overland Track is over, welcome Hobart!

Somehow it happened all so fast.
I arrived at the last check point - the Park Centre of Lake St Clair's and it hit me IT IS REALLY OVER. I finished the trail and it is time to move on! I survived alone hiking for 120 km, my very first true hiking experience and an accomplishment. <pat on the back from myself as there was no one else to do it>.

Lake St Clair

The camp side at the Park Centre was really a luxurious experience after 6 days of bush walking. You can find a camp map on the official web site of Lake St Clair Park, it will give you an idea.



Hobart's marina, commercial part, still very charming!

The last night was spent at the camp site with a proper shower and a food store with all what you could wish to get. Celebration  was sealed with Australian Pinot Noir. We felt like kings and queens. Not only it was a victorious evening but it was also a real re-union with all the Overland friends. Matt and Steve were there, eager to have a joyful meal altogether. Before that happened I had to earn my meal one more time. Not wanting to sit all the time in the park office amenities we decided to head out in looking for other local places to dine in. We were told there we few in a close enough distance. What we were not told was that the 'close enough' distance turned out to be another 5 km walk one way. So I limped these 5 km for a pure pleasure of dining together with friends. It was worth it!



Lake St. Claire camp site by Park Centre, here we finally meet the Tasmanian Devil.
 Yes, I did see a real live devil..

Lake St. Claire camp site by Park Centre, you cannot ask for mysterious look and feel.

 Transport with reliable Tassielink directly to Hobart to pickup the rest of my baggage could not have been easier. I must say I was a bit sceptical that my little rucksack is going to be found with all my items in. It was unnecessary. It was as promised, service paid and delivered. Hobart, welcome!

 

 

Pine Valley through Narcissus Hut to Echo Point (day 6)

Now that I can see the end of this trip I become sad. Walking the last 9 + 6.5 KM although painful, I want to keep it going and not finish. Stubborn as I usually am, I decide to finish the full trek instead of catching the ferry at the last stop. Guys are dying for burger and beer but I am really craving to stay where I am. After walking through the snake valley I can understand their point of view, they came here to make father-son bond stronger and accomplish the trek together. In some years to come they will come back here to repeat this undertake as a sort of ritual and their tradition. I think it is a respectful and beautiful idea. I wish more parents saw value in accomplishing things together with their children. If you think that this is the end of my surprising journey you are mistaken. As I was soon to learn my decision on continuing on foot brought me in line with my old-time friends. Unexpectedly.





Coming out of The Snake Valley. The Acropolis and The Parthenon on the horizon.
It was ideal weather for making the perfect trek.

Coming up to the Narcissus Hut at Narcissus Bay.

Lake St Clair at Echo Point. Stunning visibility on a crisp and sunny day.

Bert Nichols to Pine Valley (day 5)

Here splits the group of people that has been following each other day after day. There are goodbyes and contact exchanges. Trail brings people together, inevitably. Fighting with your weaknesses and witnessing others struggling too makes you appreciate the company. We are no longer feeling defeated if something goes wrong, we take it naturally, the blisters, the soar feet, the injuries and all the unexpected things that always happen. We also appreciate every accomplished part of the trial and we enjoy every night spend in the shelter with people sharing their mutual struggles. We understand the rules and we obey.
For example, it is an unspoken rule that you do not ask for food or water on a trail. All bushwalkers must carry their own and all the supplies are usually calculated exactly for the effort and time. Only in critical situations you ask others to share their supplies.

 

Cephissus Falls by Pine Valley

My knee was more becoming more painful every day. I was not recovering, getting worse each day. At this stage I decided to join in Steven and his son Mat. I gave up the idea of walking alone and decided to follow their pace. They have been very kind to me since we met at Windermere. At Kia Ora we were sharing same bunk bed and they cooked a breakfast for me (few spoons of porridge – very good energy food before hitting the trail in the morning). Mat was carrying a lot of photo equipment with him.He was a passionate photographer and a very talented one. Both of them they were on a father-son bonding trip and it was nice watching the two of them interact, a really pleasant company. I could not have asked for more.

Cephissus Falls by Pine Valley

Birthday magic continues - Bert Nichols





view from Bert Nichols hut - March 2012

I shared my excitement about the unexpected date on my birthday evening with the guys. Needlessly to mention that I was a bit anxious about going to the Snake’s Point in the dark to meet up with a stranger… But there are always to sides of the story and I prefer looking at the bright side each time. I have never been disappointed taking this approach so far. So comes 22:00 o’clock and I was headed towards the darkness equipped with my headlamp and positive attitude.

The birthday present happened to be ....a home baked cup cake. It wouldn’t be anything unusual if not the fact that we were in the middle of the Tasmanian wilderness and we have met for the first time just few hours before. It was soooo cute.  The most memorable birthday present ever. It tasted damn good after days of eating almost nothing ;).


The sky was clear, the stars and the moon giving enough light to feel comfortable without using our lights. The guy was a charming Ecuadorian, with a nickname “Loco”. There under Tasmanian sky we made a new friendship that was to last long after. We knew our ways will take us apart now. I was taking a side trip to Pine Valley and he was going straight to the Narcissus Hut to catch a ferry.

Birthday magic on the way from Kia Ora Hut to BERT NICHOLS Hut (Overland day 4)

Day 4th turned to be my second rainy day. Considering the Overland Track statistic says that 3/5 days are rainy/wet no matter what season, my first two sunny days were a encouraging start. Yesterday it started raining around half way through to the Kia Ora hut and it did not stop yesterday, not today.

 

Kia Ora Hut, source: Nele&Andrew around OZ

 

It was a shame as Kia Ora is placed in near neighbourhood of Mount Ossa -  the Tasmania's highest peak. Upon my arrival I could hardly see above 30 meters distance, everything was covered in a fog and puring rain.. otherwise the view would have been stunning.



Not quite 360 degree view from top of Mt Ossa (Tasmania), source: Wikimedia

There were several overlanders who took their chances to get to the top. They returned all beaten up and wet.. The terrain is difficult enough in good weather conditions. Never mind in bad weather..

As we were sitting and chatting away the rangers mentioned that there are many accidents happening as people tend to overestimate their chances in getting over to the top. Many end up injured. Some end up going there .... and never coming back..

 

Mount Ossa (Tasmania), source: Wikipedia

The Overland Track day 3 - New Pelion Hut to Kia Ora



The evening at New Pelion Hut was also the first opportunity to get introduced to other fellow bushwalkers... I had the time to observe how others prepared for this trip and how they were managing on their 4th day (while it was mine 3rd). Interestingly..


I was not doing bad at all. But I was different. I did not have cooking stove with me. I did not have fancy gear or comfortable sleeping mat..nor I was bushwalking in a company. It was soon to be my third day and I was walking it on my own, with great enjoyment!

Well I had some company. Like the one below. On one of my stops, while sitting on a fallen tree covered with my waterproof jacket, I felt a slight discomfort at first. As it started to grow I began to check what's the reason, just to discover quickly that there were two reasons... one of them captured below.

 

Meeting with a local Jumping Jack ant... not a pleasure it was I must say. It left two swollen bites that were growing quickly on my bottom.

"The Jack Jumper Ant is a close relative to bees & wasps. It is the most dangerous native ant known in Australia and its venom is one of the most powerful in the insect world. Jack Jumpers are widely found in the eastern states of Australia and are on the move."http://www.jjant.info/

I don't know how it happened as I carefully checked before sitting down, besides there was this additional layer of my jacket as well. The itchy point was that I had to take off my trousers and apply an antibiotic which I gladly did. I admire myself for taking this precaution until this day. If not for the antibiotic I think it could have ended with very nasty skin irritation in best case scenario. But with the antibiotic applied it was healing in no time, actually next day there was no marks or anything.