El Cajas part 2

Let me just tell you this, I was extremely lucky. The weather was pleasant and clear, unlike most days when it is foggy and rainy. I thought I ended up catching a trail a didn't mean to, complete mystery because on the map they are well apart. I surely did not want to spend the night alone on a wet cold mountain, with no supplies and no light. I surely did not mean to run out of water, my plan was sufficient for a days trip but not longer. 
I never carry unnecessary weight on me, and water is heavy. :| My 650ml was OK but at the end of the day I had only small bit left.

The hike up was strenuous but not out what I expected. I was happy that there was no need for trail watching as there seemed to be only one way up. Or two ways shall I say - the hikers trail and the horse trail. Following in the same direction though. In my previous post on El Cajas you could see a basic trail mark - the color and positioning.

After the steep climb that was indicated in the trail description, the road at the highest point was going down north to the village of Patul and my trail was south east. This view is of the valley where Patul is.

Never-ending stripes of lakes and wetlands, clear horse tracks and donkey tracks,

...Occasional riders here and there on the first part of the trail leading to village of Patul...

I was stopping often partly to catch my breath but most importantly to admire the views and take pictures. Even though the motorway was still visible, I felt really adventurous just by being there and hiking up where tens of local people hike every day.

The Amazon experience - preparation

One of the reasons why I really wanted to visit Ecuador was the widely commented abundance of wild life and spectacular ecosystems open to hikers. In my earlier post I already explained what is Ecuadorian government policy and why is this country so unique. You can read about it again HERE. I am all about preservation and it inspired me to get out of the comfort of American Midwest and hop on the plain to experience it first-hand.
I planned my first days to be spent in the Amazon. For many of you travellers, the Amazon is usually on one's bucket list, and it was on mine too. I have always wanted to go and admire the Venezuelan Angel's Falls, which is relatively deep in the Amazon, 3-day canoe trip to get to its base. I have always thought that will be my first experience with the Amazon wildlife and that the adventure to get to there cannot be possibly compared with anything else.  It is still true that the particular trip is my dream and while it is still on my list, pending better political climate and my increased Spanish skills, I chose not to wait for it. I am a person that does not like to sit and wait for a long time for something that may never happen. To wait for Venezuela to pull itself together is like waiting for impossible (no offense). My decision to go to Ecuador and experience the Amazon from there was based on safety, experience and common sense. It turned out to be a spectacular success and I am happy with the way I carry my due diligence. 

How was it, The Amazon experienced from the Cuyabeno Eco lodge? First you need to know where you want to go, before you can get there.

Amazing trees are amazing, every one of them is different.

The Great Lagoon, water was unusually high even for the rainy season.

Return to Quito

I'm writing this from the airport, on my way back home. It feels almost surreal, few hours ago I was strolling through Quito, discovering its inner and outer beauty. Now I am sitting in the airport lounge pondering about work assignments waiting for me and planning how to get back to my corporate life in the smoothest possible way.

Band rehearsals in the park. Fresh air and lots of freedom to express musical passions. It was fun to watch them!

Plaza Grande - Plaza de la Independencia in Quito Old Town with its interesting history - linked to Wikipedia for your reading pleasure!

Police are patrolling the Old Town on smart carts, so popular in other capital cities and not only. They can be seen from Portugal to Poland, they are also becoming a popular means of transportation for patrols and for tourist in the USA, Pittsburgh has got them as well, you can see people moving quietly through the streets of the business district.

Parque La Carolina in Quito Business District

I spent last couple days in Quito, a melt down after extensive weeks of travel. It surely was a good decision. I discovered a whole new Quito.
Read on.

Adrenaline rush in El Cajas part 1

On the trail, breathtaking views I could never tire of

On the trail, breathtaking views I could never tire of

The main attraction in El Cajas National Park is its 275 plus Andean lakes. That is something I really wanted to see first-hand. There is also a special high altitude grass lands that I have not seen before. The type of ecosystem is called páramos. In the west there is a cloud forest that must also be a great place to hike, however I have not gone that far. The weather itself is a challenge as well: "A typical day often begins cloud-free, cold, crisp, and occasionally windy until mid-morning; then increased cloud cover from lower elevations, caused by convectional and orographic uplift, brings rain, sleet, fog, and drizzle for much of the afternoon; clearing often occurs in the late afternoon or early evening.  Nights are always cold and usually clear with stars filling the skies; however, frost is frequent in the high páramos and snow is common at the highest altitudes. 

The waterfall valley, I called it that because there were waterfalls coming at me from all directions.

During any given day of the year rain, ice, snow, and fog may alternate abruptly with clear sunny skies and elevated temperatures; in one moment the wet cold necessitates heavy clothing, raincoats, and gloves, while in the next moment, lotion is needed to protect against sunburn. " So that is the kind of setting I was getting myself into. Not to mention the elevation of course. 
Check out this little chart with list of all trails and their parameters:

Trail list - http://www.parque-nacional-cajas.org

http://www.parque-nacional-cajas.org/tracks.html

The elevation profile of my trail. Actually I went higher, as I went off the trail to hike the tallest mountain near by. 

The Amazon - what it is like - a life inside of the jungle

The only opportunity to see what is inside the Amazon jungle, is to go inside the jungle. We were given the privilege and opportunity of hiking all in. During the rainy season the challenge is more complicated than in dry season because access from the Cuyabeno lodge is difficult. The lodge is located inside an ecosystem characterized by semi-permanently inundated forests flooded by black-water rivers, or igapó. And water there is truly black. As it was explained to me, it is caused by decomposition of the natural matter - chemical characteristics of the soil and the leaves and everything else that falls into water makes the water turn slightly black and makes it more acid than in other water Eco-systems. Thanks to the acidity of water mosquitoes and other parasites do not survive hence making the "water experience" so much more pleasant.  

Everything has its purpose. Eat or be eaten. If you look closely the big hopper is dead. Another species laid its eggs inside and consumed the poor b*stard from inside. All its left is this empty shell.

This poor little worm stays in a cocoon inside for many many years, and when the transformation is done and it is ready to get out, it does it only for a day - to procrastinate and die.

In Tena and moving to Macas, Cuyabeno memories

I have had a great time at the Cuyabeno Lodge. The animals were plentiful, the river was overflown and the laguna water level was so high that all of the sign posts were practically under water. It is hard to imagine that in a few months time the whole lake will be completely dry and all the trips will be made on foot.

Blue and yellow macaws flying in the direction of sunset.

Sunset over the small laguna - everything was still, no movement anywhere.

the tower observatory, view on the Amazon jungle and Great Laguna

Lago Agrio and to Cuyabeno Lodge

I did not take a bus ride to the distant Terminal Terrestre de Carcelén bus terminal in Quito. Trying my luck for the third time a day could have been two much: 4 blocks walking in the dark streets of empty neighborhoods and catching two buses on Sunday evening.. I took a taxi in the end. Being rushed to make sure I get a sit in the last evening bus, I arrived at the station way early and had to spend marvelous 4 hrs waiting for departure. I was told the terminal had all the amenities, but having arrived and checked.. all it was, was a row of food carts and a row of shopping carts in the open air, couple of benches on the side and gate entries to two bus platforms. I walked around the terminal to make sure I wasn't missing any of the promised buzz, but nope, there was none. So I plopped myself on a high chair of one of the friendlier looking vendors and shared next 4 hours with them.

Terminal Terrestre de Carcelén at night.

After small 30 minutes I was already uncomfortable and awkward. I managed to order a hot tea - which always meets a surprised faces as people in Ecuador do not regard tea drinking much. They indulge on coffee all day long, and on soda pop. Every time I was ordering a tea I had to repeat myself several times as they were not sure. What is funny, even though Spanish dictionary says a tea is simple un té, or té negro (black tea) this does not get you anywhere in Ecuador. You must specify that you want AROMATICAS and then it is all easy. Which is funny because it is a herbal tea. But you can take it from there and then say that you want a black tea. This way they will understand you easier.

Phone cabin, imagine that!

Surprisingly business is not bad for them, during my waiting time there were around 20 customers having meals and I was observing meal preparation and serving from the front line. The lady (single person operation) was very efficient and organized, as she had to be for such a limited space inside the food cart.